Cat Tree
cat tree lets your cat scratch, climb and perch safely and
harmlessly, which helps to preserve your furniture (and sanity) while keeping
kitty healthy and happy.
Cover your new cat tree with upholstery batting and a tough upholstery fabric or dense non-looped carpet
remnants, as we did here. We also stapled carpeting to cover the platforms. If fasteners need to be used on a
gripping surface, use carpet tacks and glue. These won’t snag your cat’s claws as staples may. Apply catnip and
hang toys from your tree to increase its attractiveness to kitty.
This cat tree is simple to build from framing lumber and a single sheet of 3/4"-thick plywood. Rectangular
components make this easy to carpet or upholster. The triple-ply base gives good heavy ballast to the structure
(many cat trees you’ll find suffer from tippiness). A ramp wrapped with sisal rope is perfect for climbing and
scratching. This design includes offset platforms to allow jumping between levels. For carpet you may use
practically any old scraps you have lying around the house. Generally, the denser the weave, the longer it
will last. Avoid carpet with loops that can snag your cat’s claws.
Cover your new cat tree with upholstery batting and a tough upholstery fabric or dense non-looped carpet
remnants, as we did here. We also stapled carpeting to cover the platforms. If fasteners need to be used on a
gripping surface, use carpet tacks and glue. These won’t snag your cat’s claws as staples may. Apply catnip and
hang toys from your tree to increase its attractiveness to kitty.
This cat tree is simple to build from framing lumber and a single sheet of 3/4"-thick plywood. Rectangular
components make this easy to carpet or upholster. The triple-ply base gives good heavy ballast to the structure
(many cat trees you’ll find suffer from tippiness). A ramp wrapped with sisal rope is perfect for climbing and
scratching. This design includes offset platforms to allow jumping between levels. For carpet you may use
practically any old scraps you have lying around the house. Generally, the denser the weave, the longer it
will last. Avoid carpet with loops that can snag your cat’s claws.
MAKE THE PERCHES,
POSTS AND BASE
POSTS AND BASE
Lay out the parts on your plywood sheet and cut
with a circular saw (photo A). Cut the base and the
platforms for the upper levels and the ramp. Glue,
clamp and screw the two 2 × 4s together, face to face,Use masonry
blocks or five-gallon buckets filled with water to
press the panels tightly together until the glue sets.
Then, cut this post into the base post, tall base post,
and intermediate posts (photo B). The tall base post
Remove any screws in the blade path before cutting.
Glue the three base sections together.
ATTACH THE FIRST POSTS
AND CARPETING
Face-glue the three-ply base and reinforce with
wallboard screws. Then, cut a 221/2° bevel on the base
edge. The wide side of the base faces down (photo C).
Position the short base post 91/4" in from a long side
post 91/4" in from the same long side and 2" in from
the back of the base. Outline them on the plywood
base. Remove the posts and drill four 1/8" pilot holes,
then tip the base over and drill counterbore holes at
pilot hole locations, drilling through the bottom-most
plywood panel.
Apply wood glue within the post outlines on the
base and on the post bottoms. Have a helper hold
the posts precisely in position. Attach from below
with 31/2" screws. Drive screw heads about one-third
of the way into the base until they are firmly seated
in the middle plywood layer (photo D). Cut a carpet
piece large enough to overhang the base by 5" on
each side. With a marker, transfer a map of the base
top, including exact post locations, onto the back of
the carpet. Make diagonal corner cuts 2" from the
base corners. Cut along the lines, using a straightedge
and a sharp utility knife on safe surface (photo E).
Push the carpet down over the base so the posts
penetrate the holes. Fold the carpet edges under the
base and staple them from below. Hammer in any
staples that aren’t fully seated.
ATTACH LEVEL TWO
Trace the post positions onto the top and bottom of
the Level Two platform and drill pilot holes. Place the
Level Two platform top-face down on an upside-down
carpet scrap and trace. Measure in from the edge lines
to draw the post cutouts. Add an overlap and relief
cut lines and then cut the carpeting (photo G). Attach
Trace the post positions onto the top and bottom of
the Level Two platform and drill pilot holes. Place the
Level Two platform top-face down on an upside-down
carpet scrap and trace. Measure in from the edge lines
to draw the post cutouts. Add an overlap and relief
cut lines and then cut the carpeting (photo G). Attach
UILD THE RAMP
Glue and weigh down two ramp-stock pieces, face to
face. When the glue dries, cut the ramp to 341/2" long.
Pre-drill and screw hinges to the underside of the top
and bottom of the ramp (photo H).
Nail one end of the 3/8"-dia. sisal rope to the
ramp, using carpet tacks driven along the width of the
ramp. Wrap the ramp tightly with the rope (photo I).
Compact the rope against itself with a block of wood
as you go. After trimming, secure the last pull of rope
to the ramp with carpet tacks. Holding the ramp
vertically, screw the bottom set of hinge flaps to the
base in a position that will allow the hinges at the top
of the ramp to barely clear Level Two when they are
folded down. Fold down the ramp to its final position
and screw the top set of hinges to the bottom of the
Level Two platform.
ATTACH THE REMAINING PLATFORMS
Attach and carpet the remaining levels. Cut panels of
carpet 13" wide and as long as each post to carpet the
posts. Center a carpet rectangle on the wide face of a
post, glue, and nail it on with carpet tacks (photo J).
Wrap carpet around the post and glue and tack it at
the edges. Drill 11/32" (typically) holes in the corners
of the base. Insert and adjust threaded glides (feet) so
the structure doesn’t wobble
Glue and weigh down two ramp-stock pieces, face to
face. When the glue dries, cut the ramp to 341/2" long.
Pre-drill and screw hinges to the underside of the top
and bottom of the ramp (photo H).
Nail one end of the 3/8"-dia. sisal rope to the
ramp, using carpet tacks driven along the width of the
ramp. Wrap the ramp tightly with the rope (photo I).
Compact the rope against itself with a block of wood
as you go. After trimming, secure the last pull of rope
to the ramp with carpet tacks. Holding the ramp
vertically, screw the bottom set of hinge flaps to the
base in a position that will allow the hinges at the top
of the ramp to barely clear Level Two when they are
folded down. Fold down the ramp to its final position
and screw the top set of hinges to the bottom of the
Level Two platform.
ATTACH THE REMAINING PLATFORMS
Attach and carpet the remaining levels. Cut panels of
carpet 13" wide and as long as each post to carpet the
posts. Center a carpet rectangle on the wide face of a
post, glue, and nail it on with carpet tacks (photo J).
Wrap carpet around the post and glue and tack it at
the edges. Drill 11/32" (typically) holes in the corners
of the base. Insert and adjust threaded glides (feet) so
the structure doesn’t wobble
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